Koh Samui Regatta - Friday 31st May 2024

 Jogged out of my somnalescence by my very long time friend Geoffrey Sealy, he reminds readers and me that the week's activities were promoted on this blog a week ago, and there has been nothing since. Rightly so, as when things are happening, it is hard to report on them - quote: D Trump, New York, today.

I'll try to be honest and accurate, reflecting on the last week.

I notice that there is almost always a smirk or 'wink wink, nudge nudge' moment when one tells of a journey to Thailand. On this small island, positioned here in the gulf of Thailand:

...there is indeed much to be said along those lines.  Approx 15km by 12 km, it is small, yet reasonably  populated - 40, 000 residents, largely devoted to Buddha and tourism activities. A circle of villages surround the foreshore of the island, with resort style accommodation and activities facing out to the water, and back on the other side of the main road, shops offering cannabis, cheap but apparently reasonable quality clothing, and massage for the tired bodies and limbs.

Compare for example: Bruny Island 2 to 3 times the land mass, and population 600. 

Koh Samui is clean and tidy yet a little grubby up the side lanes and alleys. 

I'm refreshed by the courtesy and humility of the people; Buddhists and for whatever that does to a person, it seems to make these people courteous, helpful, and resourceful.

It is, however, unbearably hot and humid, if one does anything like physical outdoor activity. 33 degrees most days, and 70% or more humidity. Total coverage of skin to avoid sunburn, but the heat makes for heat sensations, potentially leading to heatstroke - so avoiding the sun and covering up leads to excessive internal heat. 

The week long event of the yacht races, is a festival - enthusiastically promoted and welcomed by the islanders, the hotel operators, and the government. 

The opening session at Resort Nori was attended by the Minister for Tourism Thailand, and the Governor of this Island. Speaking, as is their wont, in Thai, there was much missing in my understanding, but suffice to say, they had a large entourage of enthusiastic government and police/ military assistants. To some extent it lent dignity to the event...

Image: quiet sea and calm and prosperous voyage

Image: rounding the top bouy, drawing in the spinnaker. Or the opposite: rounding the bottom bouy and putting up the spinnaker. It was certainly yesterday. No. The day before.

Image: showing our opposition the undersoles of our shoes. Or the media boat, with our opposition well in front not to be seen in this photo. One or the other...

Image :  the dueling get quite close. Pistols at 5 paces sometimes

Image: this one, rounding the top bouy

Image: my introducing agent, Mark Bayles and his wife, Sasha, on a local motorbike, heading off for or returning from the Nora Resort 

Most transport is 125 to 250 cc motorcycles/scooters. Everything is voluntary, and you take your own responsibility. Unlike Australia, where so much is prohibited, there is an air of personal responsibility, infusing the conduct of all, such that they take care not to take risks - not because of fear of prosecution or civil liability, but for a genuine mutual concern. Speed is constrained to about 30km max. by personal choice, and limits imposed by traffic.

Image: Lay day: on the beach with attentive local couriers delivering all requirements direct to one's bean bag.

Image: large and happy sailor on lay day, at the rum distillery. Neil, and English engineer, who likes model railways, has a cottage on the sea at Devon, and lives in Malaysia, but also Australia

Image: at the personal bar and cottages of local - formerly of Queensland, Geoff Harris: sailor.

Image: at the Rum Distillery, being advised about rum in another language. No harm done.

Image: at the Rum Distillery, platter presented

Image: Netherlands sailor Saskia, a hard working talented forward deck operative. day off, at the Rum Distillery

Image: local hospital specialising in helping stupid sailors with one or more of numerous ailments, normally brought upon by dehydration, covid, or influenza, also late nights and intoxication. On this occasion, not me.

Our yacht is a 60 foot Davidson design sled with a mast too high for me to wish to climb it, numerous sail alternatives depending on wind predictions and actuality, and requiring about 12 persons to be comfortably raced.

It is owned by a group of 4 committed sailors, some from Hobart, the others from Sydney. They have crossed paths over the last 20 years, in Sydney-Hobart races, and in the clubs and areas of mutual commerce which Australia presents. They have an implicit level of trust, and bring with them their friends and sailors to make up the crew.

There is a spirit which includes a haphazard coalescence of the people to be involved, as they travel in from various points of Australia, or are here 'working from home' or are now long term residents of the island.

There is a positivity in approach. Each person seems to see the qualities of the others, and that engenders cooperation and trust, notwithstanding, in some cases, little prior connection. That 'nature of the beast' suits the Buddhist nature of this island.

The local race committee seems to be organised by an Englishman, resident on the island, who has guided the race series for fun and competition, for 20 years or so. 

Races are organised for commencement each morning between 10am and noon, depending on wind - as it is forecast or develops. Our crew meet, depending on the forecast, at 8am or 9am, at the open restaurant in front of our accommodation, on the beach, and await notice of the time when the first race is to start.  Races finish by about 3pm, the same time, coincidentally, when the two-for-one cocktail happy 3 hours commences at our resort.  

Our yacht is anchored about 150m offshore, and we take a couple of tender rides out to pile on and start preparation. Within 40 minutes each morning, the yacht is set up ready to fight. Each man and woman is generally designated a specific job, or an area of responsibility to assist. Expectations are high. Our tactician Steve McConaghy - with roots in Hobart/Snug - quietly overseas and compels attention.

Food for lunch, 30 litres of water to prevent human evaporation, and beer for after the race - all we bring on board and stowe.

On your marks, go!

Normally there are 2 races, perhaps over 2 miles there and back twice, or a longer 9 mile race on a triangular circuit - 

It must be acknowledged the conditions require attention, and some degree of fitness for purpose in the crew. The scrambling about the boat, and attachment of parts by other parts (eg sails by lines, sheets or halyards) with specific movable metal parts to be attached to other specific non moveable metal parts, is precise. Error can have significant adverse consequences. With little precise education in the area, I am limited. You might have said that has applied at all times in all areas, but set that aside. The yacht would not do at all well in any race without the crew having speed and clarity of purpose  -  To the extent I assist, it is because I get some direction, or have a little basic knowledge.

Our main competitors are from Hong Kong or Australia. Male / female ratio about 3:1. 

Participants: Engineers seem to have a specific weighting. Not just large and overweight, but there are a number of them. Otherwise, business operators/owners predominate.

Beer has evidently been consumed by many of the sailors over a long period of time. They are familiar with it, and it does not cause them to rust, until mixed over an 8 hour period with cocktails etc.

Leave the sailing aside.

The townships on this lovely island have a very large number of delightful restaurants. Not in the way we perceive them in our Tasmanian home towns, but rather, as simple places to eat, have perfect service, and inexpensive prices. Add to that the resort style restaurants - surrounded by swimming pools, overlooking bays and headlands, with just a skip to the beach.

Local Thai restaurants (not the tourist 'special') are the best. Last night a table of 12, with almost unlimited Thai specialties (fresh fish, pork, chicken, special rice, hot soup, garlic roasted, fresh vegetable sides, ordered in enormous quantity from the photo-menu, with (again) unlimited beer or other refreshments: total $30 a head. The same at home? You do the math (as Stormy Daniels said to the New York Court about the money paid to her).

Other activities: twice weekly Mui Tai kick boxing in two locations on the Island.  But to be fair, a significant aspect of entertainment here is late night, and mentioned in paragraph 3 above. I can say, and you can choose to believe, I have not participated - having somewhat of a sense that people are being misused by a hierarchy involving government, police, and a tourist public from other countries. Entertainment, however, it is.

So tomorrow is last day racing, and the closing ceremony of the Regatta, at the Nori Resort- full report in the media.

Thence, on Monday next, off to Vancouver and Rosie, via Hong Kong.